SSB Post 12: Mid-Morning SUP Session

Thursday, September 30, 2010

The surf looked pretty small this AM, so TC and Paul skipped it. Paul went out fishing in the dinghy, while TC checked SailMail to see if John had sent a new surf forecast. While they did this, I slept. I awoke as Paul returned with his catch - an aku. I'm not sure if he had two or three lines out, but he had a double banger when his aku was on. He thinks the other might have been a yellowfin since it went straight done. However, he was pretty sure that it became some shark's breakfast.

While Paul cleaned his fish, I decided to head out for a paddle around the shallow edges of the pass before we picked up anchor to head north where the swell was likely to be bigger.

Right as I left the boat, a blacktip reef shark swam under me - it was quite deep (30 to 40 feet) and she was fairly small. I don't mind being on a stand up board over a shark, I just don't want my appendages dangling over the side of a board like a tantalizing appetizer. It was actually quite stress-free and enjoyable to watch her (or him) gracefully glide through the water gradually sliding into deeper waters.

When I am paddling around and there is not strong current to fight against, I move at a pretty slow pace. So I don't know if I can really count it as a workout, but moving at a slower pace, I can see so much more of what's going on in the water below me. Today, it was fun to watch a school of tiny fish being chased by a school of slightly larger fish (themselves only about 6 inches long), they passed right in front of my board. A few minutes later I was startled by the sound of big splashes, and a lot of them, right behind me. I turned around to look and it appeared that those same bigger fish were now being chased by even bigger fish.

Going slow also lets me really take in and appreciate the transitions of color in the water. I can't even describe all the different shades - kind of reminds me of how when Crayola used to come out with new colors, they'd have contests to name them. Perhaps if I purchased the jumbo box of 128 crayons, I'd find names to represent the myriad colors I've seen on the trip.

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SSB Post 13 - Northward Bound

Thursday, September 30, 2010/Early Friday October 1, 2010

Since our surf reporter/forecaster informed us that there might perhaps be a slightly bigger swell in the north, we decided to take off for the northwest pass of Ailinglaplap. I think the name of the pass is funny since it's Namu Pass, but it's near Bock Island. And then in Namu Atoll, there is a Bock Pass, but no Bock Island. It seems that if they switched the names, it'd make more sense.

Anyway, we'd been to this pass almost 3 years ago, when TC, Chris, Swinton, Alex, and I came to Ailinglaplap to spend almost a week enjoying Swinton's home, Jih Island, which is the northernmost island of the atoll. It was a very relaxing and memorable trip. We met an SDA teacher who reminded us of Napoleon Dynamite. We hosted a bunch of kids to a jumping-off-the-boat and swimming party. We also offered them some snacks; I think it was the first time some of them tasted cheese. We slept in a traditional Marshallese hut that Swinton's family graciously offered. One night, we had a bonfire on the beach complete with singing around it. Our anchorage was within the swimming grounds of a manta ray, which we saw a couple of times. The highlight was probably getting to go for an afternoon sail on the traditional outrigger sailing canoes. It started out as a sunny day, but then we got stuck in a storm with lots of rain and lots of wind. It was a great trip.

Back to this trip, though. Before leaving Bouj, TC went in to let the Horiuchi family know that we were leaving for a while, but would probably be back. We were all glad that he took the time to go in because they had cut a huge bunch of bananas for us. Yay for fresh fruit!

Thanks to a passing front as we departed, we were able to sail for the first hour and a half - sometimes at speeds of 6.7 knots. However, it gradually started to die down, and once we were regularly under 3 knots, we decided to motor-sail. The engine started like a champ! This was probably the 7th or 8th time in a row that it started on the first try. We laughed and said that we might be able to start calling it "reliable" soon.

We reached the pass without any trouble, though finding a place to anchor was slightly more difficult. It was either too shallow or too deep. We finally found a little channel on the oceanside that was about 60 feet deep, and hoped for the best.

As soon as we finished anchoring, it started to rain and it looked like it would last for a while. TC and I decided to do laundry. Now I could live with having stinky clothes, but I figure if we've got the water available, I will take advantage of it.

After the laundry was done, the rain had slowed to a light drizzle. However, we could see another thick bank of rain clouds headed towards us. The wind was kind of messing up the waves, which weren't huge to begin with, but Paul was distracted from the fact by a huge bird pile. He convinced TC to go fishing with him. It started to pour as soon as they left. I watched them with the binoculars from the dryness of the cockpit. It was fun watching them go from birdpile to birdpile (there were quite a few out there). They caught 6 aku, but released 3 since we already had one aku in the fridge.

Once they got back, I served them hot cups of tea. We all took showers and still we had all of our water buckets full. It's a good feeling to have plenty of water - I feel comfortable enough to thoroughly rinse my hair.

After another delicious dinner (breaded aku, blackbean soup, and rice), I learned to play cribbage. It was fun, possibly because I ended up winning. No, even if I didn't win, I'd still say it was enjoyable. I like learning new games, even if I occasionally have to laugh at myself because I keep mistakenly saying, "nibs," instead of "nobs." I think it may be because I love chocolate. I've eaten many a piece of "dark chocolate with cocoa nibs."

We went to bed around 10 PM, but poor TC and Paul woke up at least 5 times throughout the night because of weird noises coming from the chain. When we woke up this morning, the boat was doing 360's. The wind had shifted and was coming from the south. Not good for where we had anchored for for the waves. We picked up and moved across the lagoon. Now we are anchored on the northwest part of the lagoon, just south of Jih Island. I'm fairly certain there are naps in the future - maybe not for me, but definitely for Paul and TC.

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SSB Post 11 - Confession: I'm A Water Wimp

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Is it too embarrassing for me to admit that I am somewhat frightened by the ocean? Yep, I am still pretty freaked out by the thought of sharks. This is after I've been here for four years, swam in the ocean quite a bit, and haven't yet had a problem with sharks. Still the thought is always in the back of my mind.

Why bring this up now? Because for the past few days I've been watching TC and Paul surf. I'm pretty content just watching, but at the same time, I know they are having more fun than me. Plus, TC insisted that we bring "my" surfboard on the trip, which I've yet to use . . . ever. (You should know that this is the surfboard that TC talked about selling at one point, but then when I brought it up before we left he said, "No, that's your surfboard, why we would sell it?" Up to that point, I was totally unaware that I was the proud owner of a 7'6" surfboard. I think that he just wants an excuse to keep all the surfboards that he has.)

My other issue with the water here is the amount of coral. Actually, I love the coral when I am snorkeling or diving or paddling over it in a kayak or on the SUP (stand up paddle board). TC and I actually went out paddling (taking turns with the kayak and SUP) for a couple hours this morning, and then we snorkeled around the anchorage. The water was a variety of brilliants blues. The coral here isn't the prettiest, but it allows an ecosystem to develop that contains many beautiful creatures. Highlights from today were clams (my two favorites were a vivid purple and a stunning turquoise), a school of good-sized stickfish (scientific name: unknown to me), a puffer fish, and a couple good-sized angelfish.

So, really I love coral. I just don't like it seeing it so close to me when I am on a surfboard because I know I will inevitably fall and then I am afraid of bleeding profusely and then I am back to my fear of sharks.

However, while enjoying yet another gorgeous sunset this evening, I decided that the next time that Paul and TC go out to surf, I have resolved to tag along. I may not even attempt to catch a wave, but I will paddle around. I shall attempt to conquer my fears! Plus, "my" board will get some use.

By the way, the sunset was spectacular because there was a cloud over part of the sun as it set, so a path of bright blue sky cut through the reds, oranges, pinks, and purples. I got a picture, which I will share in the future.

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SSB Post 10: Japanese Lessons in the Marshall

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

This afternoon, Paul, TC, and I decided to take a longer jambo around Bouj. Plus, I wanted to deliver the cookie bars I made for Claire's host family to thank them for the coffee and crackers the previous day.

We decided to walk around before we stopped to drop off the cookies since we usually end up chatting for a while.

The first group of people we came across were some young boys playing basketball. Paul jumped in and blocked the tallest of the boys, which surprised him because he hadn't seen us walking up. Paul told them his name was Shaquille O'Neal. The boys laughed and two replied that they were Kobe Bryant and Michael Jordan.

Our next stop was at the store. We stopped to buy some baking powder - only $2.75 not too bad for being so far away from major stores.

As we were walking, a girl named Thia joined us. She asked, "What are you doing?" I said, "We're getting exercise." She showed me she understood the word by taking off at a run for about 3 seconds. Then a very pretty 14-year-old girl named Monica started walking with us and talking with me. She asked where were we from and why we came to Bouj. I was impressed that she was practicing her English.

We came across a big group of little girls. I remembered that we had yet to take a jumping picture on Bouj. So, TC served as photographer while the girls and I jumped - even the teen. Our best one has me with my eyes looking like they are closed, but I think that might be my half-Asian side or the fact that the sun was super bright. However, the rest of the picture is great because all, but 1, of the 7 girls has her arms up, and they all have a big smile. Plus, I'm wearing my green and purple muumuu (thanks again, Amber) and the girls have bright shirts of different colors - baby blue, yellow, lime, red, grass green, royal blue, and then the last girl had a multi-colored muumuu. It's like a jumping rainbow.

A little naked guy came and wanted to join in on the jumping. However, he didn't quite get it, so one of the older girls helped him out. She picked him up and jumped with him. The picture is kind of funny because it's all these girls in colorful clothes jumping and a little brown naked boy is in the center.

Once we started walking again, all the girls joined us. They serenaded us as we walked - mostly Marshallese songs, but Thia also sang "Lean on Me." I joined in, but her voice was way better.

The girls stayed with us pretty much the whole time, some even followed us to Claire's host parents house. We gave our gift of cookies to her host Mom, whose name is Flomina. She liked them and asked if the recipe was something that she could make with ingredients in the outer islands. So we exchanged recipes, I gave her the cookie recipe (thanks Nestle Toll House), and she shared her pancakes (and the recipe) with us.

Interestingly enough, I finally figured out how to spell their last name. We had brought our little notebook in so that we could actually write people's names down to help us remember them. I had thought their last name was something like "Woriji" because that is what it sounded like to me. When I saw it written, it was Horiuchi - a Japanese name, just with a Marshallese pronunciation.

This isn't the first time I've been surprised by Marshallese-Japanese names. On Kwaj, one of our friends who works at the PDR told me that she had a Japanese name. I asked what it was and she told me, "Ueko." I said, "Oh yeah, that is a Japanese name." Then she said, "Yes, it's W-I-T-K-O." That made me stop and think, then I realized that is the Marshallese spelling of the name.

Throughout the Marshalls, there are people with Japanese names since there was a Japanese presence here from 1919, when the Marshalls were taken from the Germans and given as a mandate to Japan. Japan lost control after losing WWII, though there were actual battles where control was taken (Kwajalein, Roi-Namur, and Enewetak). However, due to the Americans island-hopping strategy, some of the islands with Japanese on them were bypassed, so there were Japanese here even after the major battles.

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SSB Post 9 - Tranquil Tuesday

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

We had a pretty lazy day. TC and I slept in. When we finally got out of bed around 9 AM, TC made a yummy oatmeal concoction (oatmeal, 10-grain mix, a little honey, and some dried fruit). Then we all just laid around and read until 1 in the afternoon.

Part of the reason for our lazy day is that it was a hot one. Hardly any breeze and lots of sun make for a hot boat. I've gotten to the point where I am fairly comfortable sweating profusely. I suppose I should just be happy that I have such a good cooling system.

We had a late lunch of rainbow runner, bean, and cheese burritos with shredded cabbage (our only veggie left besides the onions and potatoes). We're still eating pretty darn well. We still have a few oranges left, as well as garlic and ginger. We have two dozen eggs (we don't refrigerate them, we just flip them over every day). We still have at least 10 blocks of cheese left. Plus we have lots of rice, dried beans, and pasta. I think we'll probably eat more of those things as time goes on. It's been fun learning to cook on the boat and getting creative with what we have. Paul made ramen and put cut up oranges in it once- it sounds strange, but was pretty tasty. I'm even getting better at using our oven (ie: not burning cookies and brownies).

Around 4 PM, TC and I made our way to shore since I wanted to drop off a bunch of newspapers and books to Claire since she had told me that the one thing she wished she had brought was more books. I gave her 8 books that I've already read that I don't think TC or Paul really would like to read or are lower on my list of recommendations. I actually brought a bunch of books from home that I'd already read, but had kept over the past couple years with this trip in mind since I remembered how much people (usually World Teach teachers) had enjoyed receiving them as gifts in the past.

Plus, we wanted to to go ashore to walk around the island a bit more and perhaps find a store where we could buy baking powder as ours is getting near the end. Why baking powder? It's quite useful for making naan, pizza crusts, and biscuits once we run out of eggs and yeast.

We anchored our dinghy since Bouj's little dock has lost some of its wood bumpers leaving big metal bolts sticking out where the wood rotted away and fell off. Then walked to Claire's host parents house. We found them drinking coffee along with her host mother's aunt. I feel really bad right now because I don't think we learned the two women's names. Right away they offered us chairs, as well as coffee and crackers. We ended up sitting there and talking with them for an hour and a half. TC gave Lee (host dad) fishing hooks that he had asked for (we bought some to give out on this trip).

As we were sitting and chatting, the tide continued to rise and TC started spotting some bigger waves. We decided to forgo the walk, so that he and Paul could get to the surf. (We will just have to go in much earlier to give us time to stop and talk.) We asked where Claire was and they said her ears had gotten worse, so she had gone to Majuro to the hospital. Yikes. I hope she is okay. I asked them to give the books and papers to her and let them know that they were more than welcome to read them too. It was fun to see Lee get excited about the paper (I gave them most of the copies of the Marshall Islands Journal I had bought and read while in Majuro.) He was reading it as we left.

TC and Paul went out and had the best surfing session of the trip yet. It was much more consistent than previous days. I enjoyed watching them, as I sat on the deck, cooled by a newly arrived breeze (yay), taking in the colors of another amazing sunset, and listening to country music. TC doesn't mind country, but Paul hates it, so I try to listen to it when I'm alone on the boat. However, I realize I probably should be a bit more active than laying around all day eating, reading, and sleeping, so tomorrow I'll get a SUP session in. I can't wait!

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SSB Post 8 - Well That's a First: My Frightening Hour On the Boat (Part 3 of 3)

Continued from previous post . . . (read Parts 1 & 2 for this to make sense)

Once TC and Paul got on the boat, I introduced them and as soon as I could get TC alone I briefly told him about my morning full of lively conversation. Then I filled in Paul, who before I said anything asked if our visitor was drunk. And then we got Bender off the boat fairly quickly - he asked for a ride out to the big boat from Majuro, which we were more than happy to oblige.

I didn't realize how much that hour (it seemed way longer) had both angered and shaken me until TC and Paul got back from dropping him off. I was trying to wash my clothes, but I kept tearing up. Finally I just stopped, went and sat next to TC and wrapped myself in a hug from him and started crying. I didn't cry for too long, though, I think I just needed to get it out of my system and crying calmed me down somewhat. (When I get really angry, I tend to cry - not that helpful when I am fighting.)

In hindsight, I should have done what the AFN commercials say to do and told Bender, "When you say things like that to me, you make me feel uncomfortable, and if you don't stop, I am going to take it to another level." I was just so completely taken back; I still am. In the back of my mind, I might also have been thinking that I didn't want to offend the landowning family of the atoll that we would like to spend 2 to 3 weeks.

I had hoped that Bender was leaving on the big boat and going to Majuro. It appears that he didn't though. Paul and TC said that when they dropped him off at the boat, the crew did not look at all happy to see him. Plus, we later saw him go back to his island (not Bouj, but the one across the pass).

If/when we see him again, and he is sober, my two friends here on the boat said they will be explaining to Bender that he cannot talk to me, or any women for that matter, like that. Paul and TC said they don't care if we have to leave this atoll because we have to be "rude" and say something to the landowning family. I'm pretty sure that Bender's parents would not be proud of him (they're the actual landowners who are in Hawaii at the moment according to him).

This whole experience was stressful and slightly traumatic, but I have to remember that, like anywhere, there are bound to be a few not-so-nice folks. But for the most part, Ailinglaplap, and the Marshalls Islands in general, is filled with beautiful, kind, and generous people - people who invite us to share in their holidays and meals, who never fail to offer us a coconut to drink, who give us papayas and ametoma necklaces, who patiently help us practice the few Marshallese words we know an teach us new ones, and who graciously allow us to photograph everything in sight and to share in the joy of jumping pictures with us.

In the end, I also have my sense of humor to keep me smiling too - I mean, his name was Bender and he was on a bender. How fitting.

Note: I think all of the outer islands are supposed to be "dry" islands, but I'll have to research that more upon my return.

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SSB Post 7 - Well That's a First: My Frightening Hour on the Boat (Part 2 of 3)

Continued from previous post . . . (read Part 1 of 3 for this to make sense)

Mr. Bender said, "You got something to drink?" I am thinking, "I bet I know what type of drink he wants," but I went and got some cups to fill with water from our big water jug on deck. I gave Mr. Bender a glass of water and asked if his friend would like water.

He said, "No, he's drunk so he needs a beer. You have beer?"

I said, "No, I am sorry, we don't have any beer."

He said, "What about vodka? You have vodka?"

I said, "No, I am sorry, we don't have any alcohol." At this point, I am getting kind of anxious. I don't know what kind of drunks these guys are - they could be mean drunks, so I try to think of something that I can offer them that they would like. I ended up offering them some chocolate chip cookies. They accepted and seemed to enjoy those.

I tried to direct conversation to things that might make them happy and possibly forget that I was not providing them with any alcohol. I talked about the big boat that's here picking up copra. I talked about how we live in Kwajalein and are just taking a few months jambo around the Marshalls. I made sure to talk about my husband. I told them about the work we did on the boat. I talk about how much I liked Jaluit and the types of Marshallese foods that I got to enjoy on Manit Day.

After what seemed like forever, but was probably only 10 minutes, TC and Paul were climbing back in the dinghy and loading their surfboards. It seemed that they were coming back to the boat. "Yes!" I thought.

You cannot imagine my utter dismay when I saw them head to the other side of the pass to check out the swell.

I guess my visitors had some business to tend to on the big boat from Majuro because after about 15 minutes, they told me they were leaving. I started heading to the back of the boat, at which point Mr. Bender pulls out a cigarette and lights up. Then all three guys spoke in Marshallese, and Mr. Bender (who learned lots of English during the two years of living in Hawaii) said, "These guys want to know if you have boxers that they can have. Like swim shorts."

I thought, "What the heck? I'll give them the nice Quiksilver board shorts Jer left with me [too small for him], so that I can make them happy. After all, the plan is for us to be here a while, no need to start off on the wrong foot."

I went back out and gave them the shorts and expected them to leave. Instead, I was pretty shocked by Mr. Bender saying, "He wants to know if you have bikini," as he tilted head to indicate he was referring to the teenager.

Though slightly alarmed, I figured I'd try to diffuse the situation with a little humor. I responded with a look of confusion and a slight smile, "Why does he need a bikini? Does he want to wear it or is it for his likatu?" (I very well know that Marshallese women do not go swimming in bikinis.)

Mr. Bender asked, "Don't you wear bikini? Don't you have a bikini for him?" and made a hand-gesture that was pretty darn rude and offensive if it was what I thought it was. I figured it couldn't be though.
I was feeling increasingly uncomfortable at this point. With a strained smile I said, "I don't wear bikinis now," and I know I should have just refused the request, but I stupidly asked again, "Why does he want a bikini?"

Bender said, "He wants a bikini so that he can smell it while he blow jobs," as he made the hand gesture for masturbating. And he said it with a smile.

I was appalled, offended, but more than anything I was probably stunned. And my anxiety level was quite high. However, I just said with a straight face - no smile, but no show of anger either - "No, I will not give you a bikini for that."

Now I was more than ready for them to leave and I think they kind of got it. It wasn't more than a minute before they started to untie their dinghy. The younger two guys climbed in, but then I was horrified to see that only the two of them were leaving. I experienced further alarm when they filled up a red cup from their dinghy with what appeared to be vodka and handed it to Bender (he no longer deserved to be called "Mister"), and then headed off towards the big boat from Majuro - leaving me with the odious Bender.

We continued our lovely conversation, but I constantly tried to direct it to topics that were to my liking and comfort level. However, at least once more he talked about me wearing a bikini, I think. I just ignored him and talked about whatever I wanted to talk about.

Can you imagine the pure relief I felt when I saw TC and Paul start to head back towards Cherokee? I said loudly, "Look, here comes my husband and our friend."

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SSB Post 6 - Well That's a First: My Frightening Hour On the Boat (Part 1 of 3)

I wasn't sure I wanted to post this at first. It seemed a little embarrassing, but then I realized it's not me that should be embarrassed. It just goes to show what can happen if one drinks too much; as the AFN commercials say, "No one wants to be 'that' guy." Plus, it's part of our journey.

Monday, September 27, 2010
TC and Paul awoke fairly early (before 0700) in the hopes of catching some waves before low tide arrived. I hopped out of bed shortly after they left, motivated by the fact that it was only 7:45 AM and slightly cloudy, and therefore still cool enough for coffee. Anytime after 8:30 it starts to really heat up, and hot coffee is not the most desirable drink.

By 8:10 AM, I had eaten my breakfast, which consisted of a hodgepodge of dry cereals with rice milk, and was camped out on the deck with my coffee, the camera with the zoom lens (they were across the pass), and my book. The preoccupation with both the coffee and the book, combined with the fact that the waves were closing out too early, resulted in zero surf pics. I can testify that they both caught at least a couple waves, though.

By 8:30, it appeared that I was going to have some visitors at the boat. Three men in a small boat came up to the bow (front)- I waved, smiled, and called out, "Yokwe." A teenage boy was driving, and his passengers appeared to be around 30 and 50. As they slowly motored along the starboard (right) side of the boat moving towards the rear, the oldest man tried to communicate with me. I couldn't quite make out what he was trying to say, but he kept talking as they then pulled up to the stern (back) of the boat.
I finally realized that the oldest man was telling me his name, Bender Loeak, and I think he was trying to tell me that he was from the landowning family. Then he said something about "license." I realized he was asking if we had license/permit from the Ministry of Internal Affairs for sailing in the outer atolls. I told him that we did have one and had talked to the acting mayor the previous day about it. He said, "Can I see it?"

At this point, I should stop and say that I had not invited them aboard or thrown them a line. Something about them had made me uneasy. Perhaps it was because they were not nearly as friendly as anyone we'd met previously. None of them really smiled warmly (if at all). I know that's not a crime, but it's a bit strange out here in the Marshalls. Also, I was slightly self-conscious since I was only wearing my sarong as a cover up - keep in mind that it was tied at the neck, so showed no cleavage and went well past my knees. Yet, my shoulders were showing, which I would have covered up if I'd known I'd have visitors. "Oh well," I thought, "it's not like they were coming on the boat to stay and chat." I went to go get the papers to show him that we had permission.

When I came back up from Paul's ama with our folder of important documents (he's the go-to-guy for paperwork on this trip, which TC and I appreciate), I was surprised to find all three of my visitors aboard Cherokee. And then as if that wasn't presumptuous enough, Mr. Bender attempted to go into the main cabin. I stepped in front of him and blocked the companionway with my body under the guise of wanting to show him our papers, which I did, but I more so wanted to keep him out of our home. At this point, I was close enough to notice that the older two visitors had bloodshot eyes and reeked of alcohol. That's when I felt all at once relieved and worried. Relieved that my sense of unease was well-founded and not just pure paranoia on my part, but then worried because now I am alone on a boat with two, possibly three drunk men who don't appear to respect boundaries (they'd already hopped aboard uninvited).

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SSB Post 5 - Back on Bouj

Sunday, September 26, 2010
We arrived to Bouj (one of three villages on an approximately 7 mile long island) at around 11 AM (I believe I mistakenly said 11 PM in the last post). Since the tide was extremely low, we decided to wait a while before taking our dinghy into shore. TC and Paul read and napped, while I mainly read. I wasn't as sleepy since I'd been able to sleep from midnight to 8 AM.

Around 4 PM, the tide was up, and we figured we'd better go check in before it got too dark. The acting mayor met us at the dock, and gave us permission to jambo (walk) around. It was a little like a homecoming for TC and I since this was one of the same islands we'd been to three and four years ago during our Spring Break trips. However, since it was Sunday the whole island was relatively quiet. There weren't many people around at all.

We were entertained by a mother hen and her many chicks crossing the road. One of her babies was dawdling and appeared to have lost them, so we helped it back to its family.

We met Claire who is a World Teach teacher from New Orleans, but just spent the last four years going to college in Minnesota. The poor girl had a horrible ear infection, but she said she was feeling somewhat better as the previous night was the first time she'd been able to sleep in two days. I learned that the World Teach teachers have to purchase and carry in their own antibiotics and treat themselves when in such remote locations. Claire said she felt really lucky to be in Ailinglaplap since just a few miles away at the next two villages were two other World Teach teachers, so they don't feel as isolated as some of the other teachers.

Claire's host father, Lee, is the Catholic deacon. He provided us with some coconuts to drink and we all chatted for a while. As we were talking, the saddest looking cat I've ever seen came up alongside us - he was missing his nose. It looked as if it had been bitten off his face. Claire said she didn't think it had much longer since he was having a hard time finding food since he can't smell it.

As it got closer to sunset, we realized we needed to get moving if we wanted to re-anchor Cherokee to a more protected spot. Apparently, Aemmon, a big supply/copra boat from Majuro, had the same idea. They moved from lagoon side to just outside the pass. Although, I think their reason for moving was mainly so that they could load and unload cargo from Bouj and the island across the pass. I was able to get some neat shots of it silhouetted against the colorful sky.

We ended a great day with a pasta dish and homemade garlic naan (we no longer have bread). It was going to be alfredo, but TC and I turned it into a thick spinach, sun-dried tomato, onion, and garlic with some parmesan, but more monterey jack cheese cream sauce. We all thought it was quite tasty. I'm learning to become more creative in my cooking.

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SSB Post 4 - Off to Ailinglaplap

Saturday, September 25, 2010 - Imrodj: Last Jaluit Jaunt
We left Jabor on Saturday morning and sailed up the atoll to an island near the Northeast Pass called Imrodj Island. We thought that there were historical buildings from the Japanese era, but upon arriving found out it was the next island over. Oh well, that's how it goes.

However, we were delighted by a huge white church with stained glass windows and a very well-kept interior. We found out that it was the result of a visit by Morning Star, which was a big missionary sailboat in the 1950s (I think, I'll have to look more into the whole story since I only know a little bit about it.)

We were guided through the island by Smith Ramsey and two children, who I believe were his granddaughter Iboline and grandson William. As we walked around, they tutored me in Marshallese, which was fun. Iboline (which may actually be Evelyn) kept saying, "Monica, Monica." I could not quite figure out the rest of what she was saying and said to her in Marshallese, "I don't understand."
At one point, I was surrounded by little girls. It seems that there is a higher proportion of girls on the island (but that might just be who wanted to talk to me). They continued my Marshallese lessons, focusing on the words for hot and sweat since they would tell that I was both. Then all the girls started saying, "Monica," and took my hand or grabbed a piece of my clothing and escorted me up the road and to the left, where I finally figured out what they were trying to say - they introduced me to a World Teach teacher named Monica. It was fun to chat with her for an hour or so. She's been enjoying her island and has big plans for trying to start a community garden and a women's exercise group. I hope she is successful. I was a little sad we had to leave so soon since it would have been nice to have lunch or dinner with her and treat her to some beans, rice, and cheese. She is not much of a meat eater, but eats whatever her host family provides. She said that most mornings she has pancakes, except for when she treats herself to oatmeal (that she brought in with her). For lunch it's rice and meat along with some coconuts, pandanus, breadfruit or bananas (whatever is ripe and available). She said she was surprised to learn that she doesn't really care that much for reef fish, but prefers shark.

Despite not seeing Japanese ruins, we were happy with our visit to Imrodj, but we needed to be on our way to get to Ailinglaplap in time for the well. So, we pulled up anchor and started to head out the pass where we stalled for while because of the huge storm that formed a wall right outside of the lagoon. Eventually, the rain started to reach us even in the pass, so we headed out and took advantage of the water and took a shower.

I am kind of a little sad because leaving Jaluit brings us fairly close to Kwaj, and we've only really gotten to spend time in Majuro and Jaluit since we didn't make it to Likiep and we left Arno after one night. We'll just have to make the most of the time we have left.

And, yes, I am aware that I should not be feeling sorry for myself since I am pretty darn lucky to be doing any sailing at all, and I've already gotten to see way more of the Marshalls than most people (even many Marshallese). I just have to remember that even though I've not gotten to see as much as I would have liked on this trip, a few years ago, I would never even have dreamed of doing something like this.

Sunday, September 26, 2010 - Ailinglaplap Arrival
The passage to Ailinglaplap was pretty uneventful - there were no engine issues. Yay! The highlight of the passage for me was that during my shift (which was not the midnight to 4 AM ), I unfurled the genoa on my own. Apparently, I am becoming more skilled. (Note for those of you are familiar with sailing, I realize this does not take a great amount of skill, particularly in light winds, still it's a small source of pride for me).

We're going to wait a while before we head to shore to check in since it is Sunday and 11 PM and most people are still in church. I'm excited since this is the island that I visited twice in the past three years and the second time we visited, one of the girls we had met on our first trip (Helenty) remembered me by name, which made me feel pretty darn special.

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SSB Post 3 - JHS has Bieber Fever

Night of Friday, September 25, 2010
After a yummy dinner of 15-bean soup that TC prepared, we headed ashore to get our last internet fix before we headed to Jaluit High School for a party. As TC, Paul, and I surfed the internet on our various computers, kids came around to look. Some of the kids sang for Paul and his girlfriend Uli (via skype) - they harmonized beautifully as they sang a Marshallese song set to the tune of Let It Be. How cool is that?

After I finished uploading blog posts and pictures, we set out for Jaluit High School (JHS). The kids were having their annual welcome party for the freshman, but we'd been invited a few times by teachers, the principal, and even the students themselves. The seniors cook a meal for the entire school - it was quite a feast with all four meats (fish, chicken, beef, and fish), along with rice, and some canned tomatoes and potatoes.

As people were eating, each class got up and sang a song they wrote to welcome the freshmen. The seniors sang all of their songs acappella, which I think I prefer to the alternative synthesizer accompaniment. Synthesizers are not bad; they just seem to drown out the beautiful sound of voices.

Smaller groups would sometimes dance or sing separately. A male hip-hop dance group also performed, which was entertaining. A female pair also did a dance to Justin Bieber, which made me laugh - yes, Justin Bieber is popular on the outer atolls of the Marshall Islands. Oh, and then a group of 10 students did a pretty well choreographed dance to a song from High School Musical (at least I think it was from one of those movies). I think that these kids would love to watch So You Think You Can Dance.

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Manit Day at St. Joseph’s Elementary School

Friday, September 24, 2010

  

I believe that “manit” means culture in the Marshallese language.  Thus it makes sense that Manit Day is basically a holiday that celebrates Marshallese traditional culture. 

We were invited to both an elementary school and the high school Manit Day activities.  TC and I decided to spend the day at the elementary school, since the high school was having a talent show/Manit Day festivities in the evening (as well as the day). 

The principal of the school, Moten, told us that she thinks it is an important holiday because some of the kids forget simple things such as traditional foods or even the Marshallese names for those foods let alone traditional songs or dances or arts like weaving.  Earlier in the week, the first grade teacher asked her students to name their favorite Marshallese food.  She said some replied, “Rice,” or “Fried Chicken,” or even “Ramen.” 

So we spent all day at St. Joseph’s Elementary School, which consists of grades K-8 under the shade of a small fan-palm tree.  It was great fun watching the different events.  The kindergartners had to race and grab one of the traditional fruits found on the island.  Then they had to say its Marshallese name in the microphone.  They were adorable (as kindergartners often are), but I was reminded that I probably could not handle teaching kindergarten.  I think I’m fairly patient, but I am pretty sure that patience is geared towards teenagers.

This little girl just kept staring us down.  I am sure it was her way of welcoming us.  

Boys running to pick up their object.  

Older kids had to race to pick up a piece of paper, which had a Marshallese name for different objects, then they had to race to pick up that object. 

These girls race to pick up their paper.  

Still older kids raced up to grab a piece of paper, which asked them to write the Marshallese spellings of words.  They would laugh when they would butcher the spelling.  It did make me kind of sad that they aren’t really learning how to spell in their own language.  I had the same thought yesterday when I was asking Ned (a 10 year old) and Lucky (a 14 year old) how to spell Jinerik’s name.  (Now, I don’t know if that is how you spell it, but that’s how it sounds to me.)  Ned and Lucky told me that they didn’t know how to spell it because, “That’s a Marshallese name.” 

This little guy looks as if he about to do a face plant.  Don't worry, he lands on his feet.  He is too young to go to school, so he entertained himself in other ways.  

Of course, this guy can't let his friend out do him.

Another race had girls racing to weave the palm frond plates.  Some girls would collapse with laughter and embarrassment because they didn’t quite know how to get it done.  Others would rapidly weave the plate with pride.  Then they took it to a judge who would say if it was good enough to be “done.” 

You can see the girl on the left is far ahead of the others.

And she gets first place!  She also has a great smile.

After the races, the school had a traditional Marshallese picnic lunch where there was supposed to be nothing foreign – no rice, chicken, kool-aid, chips, soda, etc.  Moten brought TC and I two big plates of food.  We said that one was more than enough since we didn’t want to be taking food from actual students/parents.  That one plate was enough and it was tasty.  We had fish (don’t know what kind), mashed banana and coconut ball (these are the starchy bananas not the sweet fruit ones), pumpkin ball rolled in coconut, preserved breadfruit bar (boiled in salt water, then rinsed in fresh water, then mashed it up and baked it), pandanus (raw, also called the “Marshallese toothbrush,” and bananas (small sweet ones).  Of course, they gave us coconuts to drink.  All the food was delicious. 

Gabriella makes faces as she waits in line for lunch.

Our yummy lunch served on a super biodegradable plate.

Enjoying some pandanus.  It's called the Marshallese toothbrush because it is super fibrous and those fibers get stuck in your teeth. 

You might be wondering if I worry about getting sick from food prepared on small islands (often without refrigeration).  I’m not going to lie - it crosses my mind, but in the end I’d rather take the chance.  Otherwise not only will I miss out on some yummy foods (and probably some not so great ones too), but I risk offending someone or, worse yet, having to waste food. 

After lunch were traditional song and dance performances.  Some were a little slow, but for the most part I really enjoyed them.  It was fun to get photos and video. 

Megan flashes a smile.  She was in the first jumping picture on Jaluit.  She goes to the public school (which had no classes and no organized celebration), so she came to watch her friends at the Catholic school.

This little girl is not yet a kindergartner, but she wanted to join in on all of their activities.  

At the end of the afternoon, Moten gave me a flower headband/crown and brought us two baskets filled with coconuts, papayas, and limes.  We are down to just oranges for fresh fruit, so we were totally excited about the papayas!

We appreciate the generosity of the people of Jaluit!

Pictures from Last Day at Mejiruriku

These are pictures from our last day on Mejiruriku Island.  It was such fun to go around and hand out pictures.  The last couple pictures are from when we left the pass and went ocean side (west side of Jaluit) to search for a good break.

Sorting through clothes to give away.  This tie-dye is from Jason.

Me showing one of the classes the jumping pictures I printed for them.

By the way, there are only 2 teachers for grades Kindergarten through 7th grade (no 8th graders this year).  The teacher in the picture above (Terry) teaches 3rd, 4th, and 5th grade in this small room.  Then he also teaches 6th and 7th grade in room next door (he goes back and forth).  Then his father is the teacher for kindergarten to 2nd grade.  Yikes.  Granted it's only about 30 kids total, but still that's tough.

Audrina and Lorina show their beautiful smiles.  They're holding their pictures. 

Mercy smiles large.  She was quite the ham during the picture taking the previous day.  Big personality and very cute.  

Risa seemed surprised to get her picture.  

Aimay smiles large as she gets her picture.

These are the two guys who were a bit freaked out by us when we first arrived.   The little guy in the front was the one who was crying.  This was taken the next day.  These two were so cute.  They were playing boat. 

Handing out pictures to some of the adults.

Playing frisbee with Jacobin and Ruben.

Relaxing and reading as we motor towards a surf break.

TC paddling to check out the surf.

Paul trying to catch a wave.  He caught it for a short while.

Early AM Chores

Thursday, September 23, 2010

We had all been talking about how we hoped it would rain soon.  It’d been a few days since our last big rainfall, so our water was getting lower.  Now don’t get me wrong, we have plenty of water, it is just nice to have an abundance of that wonderfully useful liquid.  That way I feel okay about doing laundry, shaving my legs, or washing my hair. 

 

At 4:30 AM, it started to rain.  TC and Paul got up to set up extra pots and pans to fill.  I was laying in bed thinking, “I hope TC washes some clothes.  My pink shirt (the one I’d been wearing for the past three days) is really smelly.” 

 

Then I said to myself, “You could be a nice partner and get your butt out of bed and start washing the clothes on your own,” so I did.  Yes, at 4:30 in the morning, I was doing laundry – my most hated chore.  I guess I am becoming better adjusted to boat life.  The good news is that it didn’t stop raining until we were done.  So even after we did our clothes, all of our water containers were full. 

 

Since we had the early morning activities, we all slept in.  TC made a yummy 10-grain/oatmeal mixture with raisins and diced apples.  Then we read for a while. 

 

Then we decided to take our sheets on shore to wash.   Those are harder to wash on the boat (but it has been done), so we figured we would help stimulate the local economy by making use of the Laundromat.  Unfortunately, only one of the washers was working, TC and I let Paul take it (since he had the bigger load to do) and we figured we’d wash our sheets on the boat later when it rained again. 

 

TC and I walked back to the little store where the wi-fi signal is the strongest, so I could upload some pictures.  A group of boys ranging in age from 10 to 13 or so said, “I love you,” as we walked by.  TC thinks they were talking to me, but I told him that he’s pretty lovable himself.  

 

Of course, as soon as I started trying to upload pictures, big black rain clouds appeared.  We quickly shut down our computers, put them into our drybag and headed back to the boat so that we could get back to the boat to wash our sheets (our clothes had been washed in the early morning laundry session).  Doing the chore together definitely makes it less work.  I don’t think I will complain about doing laundry when we get back to Kwaj.   How easy it will be to throw it in the washer and then in the dryer. 

 

The rest of the afternoon/evening was spent on shore trying to upload pictures (I was successful!!) and chatting with people.  All of the kids are enthralled by our computers, so it’s fun to show them slideshows of different places from our travels.  We also got invited to the Manit Day celebrations at the Catholic elementary school and the high school tomorrow during the day and the high school talent show tomorrow evening.  It should be a fun day.  I can’t wait!

 

We’re the Picture People

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

We decided to pick up anchor to search for a better surf spot.  Before we left, though, I wanted to go back on the island to hand out pictures.  The previous day, I had tried to get as many individual pictures of the kids and then of the families who gave us gifts.  TC and I bought a portable printer, so that we could bring it on this trip and not just take pictures of people, but give them an actual copy.  I got the idea from the annual Christmas on Carlos event that another teacher and I organized for the past four years.  Carlos is an outer island in Kwajalein Atoll.  We bring fruit, gifts, candy, games, and more, but what everyone seems to really treasure is a picture of their child with Santa.  Both the kids and parents are thrilled to have the picture. 

 

Anyway, it was such fun to go around the island and deliver pictures.  It brought such big smiles and squeals of delight.  I just felt bad that I didn't have a picture of everyone.  I also printed 8x10 sheets of the two best jumping pictures and gave them to the teacher at the school, so that all the kids could look at them. 

 

I also had fun throwing the water Frisbee around with Ruben and Jacobjin (no idea how to spell his name, but that is what it sounds like) on their lunch break.  I bought that Frisbee a few years ago in Okinawa and had never used it.  I left it with the school. 

 

We also brought a couple bags of clothes and accessories to give to the two families who had given us the gifts of coconuts and coconut candy.  One of the ladies made me kind of sad.  She asked me, "Do you like this island?"  I told her, "Yes, it's beautiful, especially the water."  She said, "Yes, but this island is dirty."  I am not sure what she is talking about because really it is pretty clean.  There was one area that looked like a flip flop graveyard/dump, but the island itself is cleaner than the metropolises of Majuro and Ebeye.  I told her, "No, I don't think it's dirty.  I think it's beautiful. Plus, you gave us nice gifts of coconuts and ametoma.  Thank you."  I hope she doesn't think that the reason we stayed only two nights was because we didn't like the island.  It's just that I am traveling with two guys who are in constant search of waves. 

 

After emptying our dry bags of our gifts, we headed back to the boat, pulled up anchor and went in search of a good wave.  The swell was not hitting at the SW pass the way the guys had thought it would.  It was also much too shallow – breaking right on the reef.  We went all the way down to the southern tip of Jaluit, then headed back north to what we thought might be a good wave.

 

After we set anchor, TC used the stand up paddleboard to investigate.  This wave looked like it was breaking on the reef as well, but it wasn't quite high tide.  However, since the guys are a bit desperate after not having surfed regularly for the past two years, they decided to try.  Paul caught a couple, but they didn't end very nicely.  TC was patiently waiting for a wave on the other side, but it never appeared. 

 

So, the guys got back on the boat and said, "Why don't we go up to the westernmost part of the atoll since it might hit better there."  Well, it probably wasn't like that word for word, but that was the gist. 

 

If you've been following our journey regularly, you might be thinking, "I am so glad they are finally getting to enjoy their trip without any engine issues."  Haha.  I, too, had been just thinking about how wonderful the past few days had been.  The engine had been starting on the first try each time.  TC hadn't had to go down into his second-home in the engine room. 

I think the engine missed the drama.  As we were pulling up the anchor, Paul discovered that even when he pushed the throttle all the way forward or all the way to reverse, the engine would not go above 1300 or so rpms.  That's not good.  So instead of going further north up the west side of Jaluit, we decided to go back to either our anchorage at Mejiruriku or even all the way back to Jabor since it's the better/safer anchorage.  After all, we didn't want to be anchored oceanside and have issues.  If there was a strong wind or current, we might not be able to get away from the reef since our top speed was about 1.5 knots. 

 

We decided to head back to Jabor since it was the better anchorage.  Halfway across the lagoon, as we were eating the yummy pasta and homemade foccacia bread that Paul had prepared, the engine roared to life.  No, no one had done anything.  That is a little worrisome to us.  You kind of want to know the cause of the problem, so you can remedy it.  I am sure we'll have time to figure it out.